Відео

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Nice work 👏

Could I please have some measurements.

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In my 70 years as a craftsman nearly all my work came from someone who saw it in usually someone's house and inquired as to who made it. The answer, this funky old guy in Boonsboro usually brought another quest for work. Work out there sells work. It starts with your first finished piece.

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a more unflattering thumbnail could not of been picked.

По русски можно

As a beginner, you pointed out a few things I had never heard elsewhere. Thanks. Marc mentioned that fish lips occur when the material is hotter on the outside than at the core. Normally when metal is removed from the forge it begins to cool outside before the inside. Therefore if a person is prone to fish lipping it may mean that they are impatient and not letting their stock get evenly hot all the way to the core. As a beginner I make that mistake because different venues and different forges change my perception of color. Beginners might take a while to adapt to different lighting conditions. I almost need a laser pyrometer at new venues until I get used to the new lighting. I have even more trouble with forge welding for the same reason- I cannot judge the color of the hot metal correctly. I am OK at home because I am used to my own level of light but put me in a class and I must start learning all over.

Nice job Russ!

Sadly I live in Australia , But I enjoy watching your videos on UA-cam . So congratulations on your 50th Anniversary . Cheers 🍺🍻🤠.

Looking forward to it, see you there!

What a great example. Thank you!

Nice video! What type of anvil?

is that a Fontanini anvil??? You lucky so and so

Nice work John.

You make it so easy , well done . 👍🤠

Really good video!

It's magic to my emotions!

This was great to watch. Thank you.

I've taken a few of Darryl's classes but never got to take any of the animal head courses.

Having a family and personal history with Timberline Lodge where much of this kind of artistry is found, I suddenly had an epiphany. My parents passed away in 2019. There was a surprise small life insurance policy that we split. For five years I have been searching for something of meaning in our family that would endure as an heirloom in which to use that money. This is perfect as a lasting legacy to Mom and Dad as well as the story of our family. Thank you so much for publishing this video!

Es que los veo y trato de adivinar por el idioma

Podran enviarlos en español

Super helpful. So much to learn from this one video alone. More typed commentary/ subtitles are always welcome, to teach newcomers what each name/ term means. Eg: dressing - what does it mean. Is a bick the horn of the anvil?

Nice vid, but I have a few comments. First I suggest you read Francs Whitaker's book " The Blacksmiths Cookbook and read his article on collars. Far simpler, far less tooling, less time and, as he was fond of saying concerning precision, "right on every time". Its fairly similar but with some pretty significant differences. Please note you misnamed blind tenon. What you used is better called a counter sunk tenon. A blind tenon is, in fact a stud with a threaded end. This goes into a threaded hole that uses a bottom tap to bring the threads to the bottom of the hole. Screw the stud into the hole, snug it down, place your scroll over the proud end of the stud and head it however you want. This works particularly well when attaching anything to a newel post as an example. As for collar length, I think you got it right, but it was confusing. The exact length of any collar is the perimeter of the material to be collared plus 2-1/2 times the thickness of the collar material. this is the exact length for square ends, not beveled. If you follow his method, the ends will be butted and tight every time. If you want beveled ends, after you cut to length, just make matching tapers on each end{reversed}. When finished, the ends of the taper will be equidistant from where the tapers start. I suggest never forging a collar after you make the bends and its fitted to your scrolls. By forging I mean hammer hits hot iron and there is no air between hot iron and the cold scrolls. This will draw out your sides and change the lengths. When you review your vid, consider what you are applying collars to. If you are doing a 3'x5' grill or a 4'x10' rail section, using your technique you will need a helper or two. Using Mr Whitaker's method, you can do them by yourself. All in all a good vid and if used will certainly create good collars. Hope this helps.

Nice demonstration sir! Lots of things to consider.

I do like having a known level. It is like a cabinetmaker’ toolchest. You know the work possible with one glance. I wish there were instructors in my area, but I will do the work regardless. It can hang on the wall as my own advertisement of skill level.

Man I am glad there were the questions afterwards. I always thought the sub zero Stabilizing section in the App was a misprint of some kind. I never even considered cryogenic quenching before the temper was a thing. Also great explanation on the multiple thermal cycling. I appreciate you guys.

these measurements in the impirial system fucks my mind up every time. it is utter nonsense.....

Thank you so much for posting this video it has been hard to find information on making animal heads.

Great vid and inspiring. Thanks. I'd like to add a few ideas. I learned these from Francis Whitaker, so He gets full credit. Using a forge or using a torch isn't mutually exclusive. Use them both. My first bend is done out of the forge and with both bending forks and scrolling wrench in the vice. Then the torch becomes a localized heat where needed. Minimize the length of your initial heat, but don't dwell on it. It will cool down quickly and not be a problem so Its not critical. My bending forks and scrolling wrench are done as a set and are made"just a little bigger" than dimension. Think a bakers pinch of salt bigger. Lets use half square. So the forks are just a little more than half. This means that you can make your initial bend as tight as possible and this means less work. Layout: put your center punch mark on the inside surface, not the top or bottom. Its easy to see and will disappear when done. And its just right on the money when its dead center in the bend all the time. I always forge my right angle bends to dimension. Its great layout and is actually much faster. And no chalk marks on the anvil are needed. For example, we are using half square. Mark your center as above. No choose an arbitrary length, say 4". Add half the thickness to both sides of your center punch mark and make a mark(center punch, scribe, file mark) 4-1/4" each side of center. Done. I use a 6' metal folding ruler and it lives in my back pocket. An easy reach and a quick measure on both legs to see where my upset is. No disappearing chalk or trips to the measurement on the anvil. Massive heat saving deal. Forging: Most important is whilst doing your upsetting lay your work on your anvil and set your thickness to 1/2". Part of your upset will go where needed, but a substantial amount will be lost back to length. Let it go proud until your measured length hits 4" and the outside edge is approaching an edge, not rounded. Now go to the face of the anvil and use your cross peen to move that upset wild material to the far edge. Following the formula(add half the thickness to each side of the center punch), you will need every bit for a good upset right angle bend! With these additions, you should, with due diligence, torch and forge be able to make these in 3 heats. When you are hot 2-3 and comfortably 3-5 heats. When you get to this point, its an economically viable detail. Thanks, hope this is appropriate.

Thank you for these. I have watched all three now, and really appreciate your clear explanations and attention to detail. I haven't reached a thousand forge welds yet, but I'm improving!

Packed with valuable information - thank you.

Regarding your question at 34:17 using an oxy acetylene torch I've found that I can get pretty precise heat that often doesn't require quenching. However you won't get quite the same "sharp" line between heated and non heated parts of the bar as one does with quenching a part heated up in the forge. It is also a bit more difficult to get the entire bar heated up evenly particularly with larger stock, since the torch can only heat from one side at a time. With a little practice and planning, I've found I can get wonderful speed and accuracy when using both methods in tandem. Less downtime waiting for the forge.

If I am making just 1 square corner on a bar I prefer doing it on the anvil, that being said I see now that if I need 2 or more square corners on the same bar the vise technique is invaluable. What I haven't done yet is the pre-upset square corner, I haven't had need for the strength but I do like the aesthetics of it. I have done square corners in both Acetylene and Induction heater, both are the best options for square corners because of the isolation's you get in the heat, with that in mind you still need to quench because you heat soaks up into the metal with time and each additional heat. On my channel I show a square corner where I use the induction heater to isolate the heat it is my favorite option tho I understand most will not have this option available to I do recommend the Acetylene torch. Thank you for explaining the way to measure the stock to keep the corner where you need it.

Well done Becky! So few discuss post-bend upset. It makes more sense to me. Thanks again for the lecture, :)

Hello & Love, from Dublin Ireland. X

What is the right steel for this project?

2 square corners on one bar and match the space of the drawing is impressive. I have done the 2 corners on the same bar but I haven't figured out how to stay within my dimensions yet. If there is a trick to figure out the formula I would be very interested in hearing it.

Thank you for the video.

Thank you for sharing this with us! Excellent work!

Nice! I think I will make myself a 45 degree angled hardy hole Anvil Bick so I can try this out.

Nice job Frank!

Learned more than words can describe.